The article is titled “Lard: The New Health Food?“. Lard seems to getting more and more press these days:
Lard, he cheerfully reported, contains just 40 percent saturated fat (compared with nearly 60 percent for butter). Its level of monounsaturated fat (the “good” fat) is “a very respectable 45 percent,” he noted, “double butter’s paltry 23 or so percent.”
Apparently it’s great for crusts:
After hanging out in your mouth for a minute, though, a lard-fried crust becomes soft and creamy, as voluptuous as a Rubens nude but not as heavy. All my kitchen slipups didn’t stop me from recognizing that lard is the most elegant fat I’ve ever met…
My euphoria lasted about 10 minutes. Then I wanted to hunt down the villains who’d kept me away from my beautiful lard all these years.